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NIKE TOOK SOMETHING EVERYBODY ALREADY HAD FOR
FREE, gave it
neat-looking packaging, bought celebrity endorsements for it, and sold
it for a premium. What they sold, of course, was air. Nike's Air
cushioning system was a triumph of technology and marketing, and,
assisted by a basketball player named Michael Jordan, Nike grew from
car-boot sales to the largest seller of sports shoes in the world by
quite a margin.
In
1962, Phil Knight, an accounting major and middle-distance runner from
the University of Oregon, took a trip to Japan. There, inspired by a
term paper he had written about importing sneakers, he struck a deal
with a sneaker manufacturer called Onitsuka Tiger (later known as
Asics) to become the brand's distributor in thirteen western states,
later expanding to national distribution rights. Under the company name
Blue Ribbon Sports, Knight originally ordered 200 pairs, paying $3.33 a
pair. On his return to the U.S. he teamed up with his running coach,
Bill Bowerman, each contributing $500 to the enterprise. They sold the
Tiger sneakers for $6.95 a pair from the trunk of Knight's green
Plymouth Valiant at athletics meets and from a tiny shop next to the
Pink Bucket Tavern in Portland; in 1964, they made $8,000. Knight, who
was working part-time as an accountant, hired a full-time salesman
named Jeff Johnson, another runner, who would later come up with the
name Nike after it came to him in a dream. Nike is the Greek goddess
for victory.
Meanwhile Bowerman spent his spare time
experimenting with homemade shoe designs, obsessing with shaving
fractions of seconds off his runners track times. In 1970, he
mythically poured rubber onto his wife's waffle iron and created a new
lightweight sole that offered athletes unprecedented cushioning and
traction. In 1971, Knight and Bowerman took Johnson's idea for thename
and called the business Nike. The go-faster stripe that looked like a
tick on the side the Swooshîcame from a local design student who they
paid just $35 (though she was later rewarded with Nike stock). In 1974,
they launched the Waffle Trainer, which went on to become the
best-selling training shoe in the United States. Bowerman and Knight
had a natural flair for marketing. After the 1972 Olympic marathon
trials, they announced that four of the top seven finishers had worn
Nike shoes (ignoring the fact that the top three places were filled by
runners wearing Adidas, then the world number one). In 1973, Nike
persuaded recordholding runner Steve Prefontaine to wear its shoes;
then in 1974, with no paid endorsement, Jimmy Connors won Wimbledon and
the U.S. Open wearing the Waffle Trainer. In 1978, John McEnroe signed
up (paid at one time what was then regarded as a scandalous $100,000
a year) and Nike began its march to become a world-leading brand—in
1980 replacing Adidas as the country's top sneaker company. That was
also the year Nike went public, turning several families who had
invested $5,000 each in the early days into millionaires.
Nike's
Air cushioning system first appeared in 1979 in a model called the
Tailwind, after a former aerospace engineer called Frank Rudy had
approached Blue Ribbon Sports with the idea of including a little air
bladder in the heel of a shoe. After making around 1,000 prototypes to
get the formula right, he licensed his patented idea to Nike. Marketed
as 'air travel'ù with images of the Wright Brothers, Kitty Hawk, the
Tailwind was a success, but it missed a crucial marketing angle you
couldn't actually see the bubble of air inside the shoe. It was only
when Nike eventually came up with a little plastic window in the side
of the shoe in 1987 Air Max that Air became a phenomenon: you could
now see that between your heel and the ground was a bubble of nothing.
(The 'air'ù was actually a gas called sulfur hexafluoride, made up of
molecules that were too large to escape through the tiny holes in the
polyurethane bubble. Instead of deflating over time, the bubble
actually increased in pressure as other gases seeped in from outside.)
Nike
hit a speed bump in 1986, when a sales slump forced it to lay off staff
for the first time. Rival Reebok had hit upon soft shoes for the
women's aerobics boom, which Nike misjudged, and Reebok moved briefly
to the number one spot. Nike's marketing whiz Rob Strasser (who later
helped to revitalize Adidas) had publicly remarked that Nike would
never ‚Äúmake shoes for those fags who like aerobics. Nikeîand
Strasserdid, however, predict another trend that would prove far
longer-lasting: the kind of shoes worn by a little-known basketball
rookie, fresh from the University of North Carolina, by the name of
Michael Jordan. According to a New York Times report, 'The Selling of
Michael Jordan,'ù a few weeks before Jordan started with the Chicago
Bulls in 1984, Rob Strasser met with Jordan's agent to discuss how they
might best expand Nike's range of basketball shoes.
After
mentioning Nike's new line of air-cushioned soles, they came up with a
concept: 'Air Jordan'. As Jordan's career blossomed, the shoes Nike
created specially for him 'Air Jordansî became highly soughtafter by
young urban males as a fashion item, especially after the controversy
that surrounded the first model, a black and red pair that were banned
because they did not match the rest of the Bulls uniform. Nike ran an
ad: On October 15, Nike created a revolutionary new basketball shoe.
On October 18, the NBA threw them out of the game. Fortunately, the NBA
can't keep you from wearing them. Air Jordans. From Nike. The $65
pairs of shoes were soon changing hands on the street for $100, and one
basketball executive told a newspaper he was afraid to wear his in case
somebody mugged him for them. (The shoe was updated every year, and a
recent model, the $200 Air Jordan XVII, came in its own metal
briefcase.)
By the end of the 1980s, Nike had an unbeatable
recipe: alluringly high-tech products, endorsements from athletes
across a range of disciplines, an instantly recognizable brand, and a
memorable slogan: Just Do It.
In 1996, Nike presciently signed Tiger
Woods, then age twenty and largely unproven, to a reported $40 million
five-year contract. The following year, Tiger won the U.S. Masters by a
record twelve strokes and Nike's share of the U.S. sneaker market
reached an alltime high. As a brand, though, Nike was no longer as
young and fresh as its marketing might have you believe, despite the
best efforts of the marketing geniuses at Nike's World Campus, a
college-style cluster of buildings in Beaverton, outside Portland,
Oregon, which featured jogging tracks, gyms, and child care. Perhaps
life at Nike headquarters was too cushioned from the edgy, real world
outsideîwhat employees called 'the biosphere'.ù For all its
counter-culture pretensions, Nike was now firmly mainstream, which began
to turn off younger buyers. In 1998, Nike had its midlife crisis. The
sneaker market was fragmenting. Soft, bulbous shoes designed for
skateboarding and classics,ù such as Puma's and Adidas revamped
1970s styles, were now fashionable alternatives to Nike's high-tech
athletic look. New Balance, with a wider range of sizes and fittings,
was stealing hardcore runners who didn't care what shoes looked like as
long as they were comfortable.
Nike's widespread use of labor in
developing countries made it a target for anti-globalization
campaigners, who revealed the company's contractors had employed
children as young as eight, paying them just a few dollars a day to
make sneakers that retailed for over $100. Nike may have been paying a
premium over the usual local wages and provided much-needed employment,
but it still jarred when customers learned Phil Knight alone was worth
an estimated $5 billion. Then the Asian economy tanked and Nike
suffered a surprise bloody nose on the sporting field, when it
sponsored Brazil for a reported $200 million at the 1998 soccer World
Cup, only to have them lose to Adidas-sponsored France in the final.
Profits slumped 50 percent from the previous year's all-time high. So,
what knocked us down, Knight asked rhetorically, in his letter in the
1998
annual report. Asia . . . brown shoes . . . labor practices . . .
resignations . . . layoffs . . . boring ads. A little shaken, Nike
responded by reevaluating its brand, so well recognized but now
attracting negative associations. In 1998 it downsized its use of the
ubiquitous Swoosh (dubbed the 'Swoosh by Nike's opponents) and
replaced the commanding 'Just do it!' with the wimpier: 'I can'. In
1999, the year Bill Bowerman died in his sleep at age eightyeight, Phil
Knight apologized to his staff at Nike's Portland, Oregon, headquarters
for the loss of direction, and even admitted to the company's failings
in the third world, conceding: the Nike product has become synonymous
with slave wages, forced overtime, and arbitrary abuse. With
commitments to improving conditions for its factory workers and a new,
humbler public demeanor, Nike refocused on the elements of its initial
success, technology and endorsement.
To increase its appeal 'Just
Do It'ù returned as the main slogan, but otherwise Nike looked for ways
to diversify the brand, rather than pitching the single, authoritarian
message that had come to seem arrogant. In 2005, Nike announced it
would post information on its website about the 700-plus factories it
uses to make its products. To increase its appeal to women, Nike
launched a yoga shoe and the Nike Goddess brand (later renamed
Nikewomen), and a chain of stores designed more like upscale fashion
outlets than sports shoe shops (prompting worldwide clothing sales to
increase 30 percent by 2004). For teenagers turned off by Nike's ubiquity,
it launched a range of skateboarding shoes that were available only in
limited numbers from specialist skateboarding shops (supported,
naturally, by endorsements from Nike- sponsored skate pros). In 2003,
it bought competitor Converse, but kept it operating under its own
brand name. Phil Knight also has a strong belief that Nike's future
lies in soccer, both in the U.S. and worldwide. He first signed the U.S. women's
star Mia Hamm, followed by an unknown fourteen-yearold soccer player
named Freddy Adu (who became the youngest player ever signed to a U.S.
professional team), then he paid English champion soccer team
Manchester United a record $450 million to wear Nike shirts and shorts
for fourteen years. But the athlete that best typifies today's Nike is
the cyclist Lance Armstrong, who beat cancer, then broke into the
insular world of European cycling to win the Tour de France in 1998. As
he continued to dominate the sport, he attracted critics who claimed he
had used drugs (even though he has never tested positive). But
Armstrong toughed it out, remained focused on the basics, training hard
in the mountains, and in 2005 came back to win the Tour for a
record-breaking seventh time. Courageous. Unstoppable. And wearing
Nike. By Emily Ross & Angus Holland, exclusive online extract from
100 Great Businesses & the minds behind them. Buy
online